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Whether you’re a professional engine builder, mechanic or builder, or a car enthusiast who loves engines, racing cars and fast cars, Engine Builder has the content for you. Our print magazine offers detailed technical data about everything you need about the engine industry and its various markets, while our newsletter keeps you up to date with the latest news and products, technical information and industry figures. However, all this is available only by subscription. Subscribe now to receive monthly print and/or digital editions of Engine Builder Magazine straight to your inbox, as well as our Engine Builder Newsletter, Weekly Engine Newsletter or Weekly Diesel Newsletter. You’ll be covered in horsepower in no time!
I like to use a reamer to clean oil passages in old engine blocks that have been sitting and rusting for a long time. If you use a +.001” oversized reamer you will have very clean oil passages.
I often feel that people do not properly open the upper oil ring guide. At operating temperature, the top oil ring guide should have the same clearance as the second (oil scraper) ring above it. This same gap is a safe adjustment. The conical gap of the second ring will open with the end seat, but close somewhat at operating temperatures. This completes the path for any “pressure spikes” to escape through the oil ring groove drain holes. If the top guide is taut, this can have the same deleterious effect as tightening the wiper ring over the top (compression) ring, breaking the O-ring. A normally functioning annulus requires a controlled exit path for pressure surges to prevent leakage. This is especially important for ventilated pistons or piston rings. Bonus tip: sand 3-4 pieces at a time for more stability and not too many sticking out ends. So they do not grab the steering wheel and do not lean.
When the deck blocks are square, I simply measure parallel support rods from each corner of the deck. Select the lowest side and lay it first. Then turn the block over and align that side.
For quick and easy installation of cranks on grinders, especially lathes for polishing, I have made liners for various engine families. Delron or similar stuff works well, I gave them about 0.001″ clearance so they are pretty stable.
I like my super scraper to be nice and sharp. Here’s an easy way to decorate them. I cut a piece of scrap steel in my factory and drilled a hole with the same device to make it nice and square. I drilled a hole for a .375 tool post for diamond lapping of the boring bar, and then ground it down to a size that gave a good tight fit. Place the clamp on the stand, place the spatula on the diamond circle so that it lies flat, and tighten the clamp. Run it back and forth a few times with the wheel running and check the edges. It won’t take long and they will scratch like new again!
I made this simple chuck stand to make it easier to change chucks on lathes and crank grinders. Constructed from PVC tubing, truss gate studs (or a fully threaded rod) and fasteners, this adjustable chuck holder allows the chuck to slide off the spindle easily. Used with wooden boards to protect access to the machine, changing the chuck is quick and easy. No need to laboriously lift heavy 6″-12″ chucks onto the spindle. Tighten the locking bolt by hand to connect the two PVC pipes and raise the chuck, or loosen it to let the PVC pipes separate and lower the chuck. PVC pipe is relatively easy to move side to side through the wood, making it easy to level and maintain while installing or removing a chuck. Clamping the length of tubing in the chuck creates a comfortable handle for safer entry and exit from the clamping machine.
Post time: Dec-12-2022